QUOTIDIANOMIME

Also available in: Italian

The second day of London Fashion Week highlights what people hoped to be just a coincidence yesterday: the little influx of people. Is the show uninviting, or has the halving of spectators and experts damaged the entire event?

It is not known what is certain, and raises even more of a stir during the parade of Tom Ford in Los Angeles, with 500 guests, including 273 actors. And sure this may be a “time of crisis”, but this looks more like a slap in the face than anything else. To be distracted by these thoughts we think of the designers who want to stay ahead, hoping to emerge in time for the next Fashion Week.

In a typical autumn, with a typical catwalk of a bed of dry leaves, Jasper Conran shows a warm and enveloping collection, made of intense tones such as dark navy and green moss on tissues in turn “hot” as the wool and cashmere, covering the models from head to toe. Comfortable space suits and sweaters that help fight the cold. Moreover, it is a fall collection, and Conran combines practicality and style in each piece.

More imaginative and delicate tones are in the collection of Markus Lupfer. In a pastoral setting recreated within the Carlton House, Markus Lupfer recreates a fable, with dresses and sweaters on which often have printed strawberries on them. A collection and a lovely location ruined only by the presence of frightened rabbits encased in giant glass balls hanging from the ceiling. Fuoriluogo? Of course!

To all punk, instead, Sibling, where the shocking pink and black coat look daring and clothes made of leather with browser in fur coats look saucy. Promoted prints line pants and jackets, shot down by the colored fur. For Sibling there will be no rules for next winter, but recklessness does not necessarily mean lack of style.

Inspired the television show is Holly Fulton, between crystals adorning fur collars on romantic coats. A collection declined in the colors of white, pink, green, black, to show a glam woman with a vague fascination of the 60s.

Even Maia Norman, director of Mother Of Pearl, here to make her “soltiary debut”, is inspired by her heroines, such as Wynora Ryder, Claire Danes and Chloe Sevigny. Here then is a collection made of a mix between casual and sportswear for pants, romantic blouses, basically clothes that are comfortable and relaxed.

Lucas Nascimento is surprising, perhaps for the first time, and they all agree on one thing of his collection: it is good at mixing the tropical colors of his native country, Brazil, in coats, blouses and stretchy skirts . Colorful and vibrant: a nice way to face the cold.

Simple, straightforward and masculine traits: this is the idea of ​​the collection of 1205. There is no room for softness, but such severity, both for clothes, for jackets and trousers. A palette of sad, dismal colors. The elegant minimalism style is difficult to pursue, some people have found the key, such as Victoria Beckham, and there are those who try and fail, such as 1205. Too bad.

Elegant, refined over time, as always, the second woman Simone Rocha. Among fabrics are woven brocades, austere but chic coats, dresses with prints that stand out and transparencies, the designer gives a lesson in style and quality. Mica little.

Emilia Wickstead creates a compelling collection, complete with clothes and colors or prints perfect for daywear, but also for nightwear. A difficult balance to maintain, but basically just change the accessories, no?

The third day of London Fashion Week is next, and we expect the usual parade of celebs and it-girls for Topshop and Mulberry, more parades from Mary Katrantzou and Vivienne Westwood. Good luck!

Vogue.co.uk; Markus Lupfer Press Office (TKS London); Lucas Nascimento Press Office (In+Addition), Simone Rocha Press Office (Karla Otto London)