QUOTIDIANOMIME

Also available in: Italian

London Fashion Week has opened to a grey sky and an audience which is apparently not very large. Blame the crisis or the brands that fail to make the leap? Apart from the usual suspects, many of the brands present here are unable to “break through”, so there is little to show to the public. Is this a winning strategy? For posterity, the judgment quotes the proverb.

Much as the sky is grey as the collections are colored,  inspired by many different things but showing an eclectic and daring woman for next winter.

The color is dominated by Paul Costelloe, who in the luxurious setting of the Waldorf Hilton, accompanied by the whole family, brings to the catwalk a ladylike woman, who is all bon ton in his delicious clothes and coats, and amazingly not snobbish. It was definitely among the best of the day.

Urban is the collection of Eudon Choi, concealing the female body under dreamy coats, between geometries and patterns and a mix of male and female, we get a glimpse of an icy, but contemporary and intriguing woman.

Color is also presented by Daks, oddly staged at Somerset House, where red is the master, and rarely interrupted by the black and white of the total look.

A dynamic and decisive woman, as is also that of Jean Pierre Braganza, who moves within an oriental sensuality, then space volumes and structured but softened look.

Provocative are Felder Felder and Fashion East: if the first exceeds transparencies, skin, and horizontal lines, that clash even on the body of skinny models, the second door inside a boudoir full of confused ideas, in a mix of unfriendly pieces to each other that you do not understand the meaning of.

J.JS Lee, who was kicked off the London Fashion Week, tried something new by abandoning the masculine lines in favor of a rediscovered lively and fun childhood, and also and inherent sensuality, a woman with a sexy tomboy attitude. Sass & Bide staged a cosmopolitan collection, dominated by black, full of winking dresses, worthy of it-girls such as Cara Delevingne. Beautiful but no over the top.

The next winter season we will see daring and sensual women, wearing coats covered necessary for the cold, but still looking elegant as ever. Will you be one of those women?