QUOTIDIANOMIME

Also available in: Italian

 

Milan Fashion Week opens with a breath of fresh air that sees many young brands and designers making their debut.

Last Tuesday evening, in Piazza Vetra, the National Chamber of Fashion has organized the event-parade Next Generation that saw the presentation of the four mini capsule collections designed by the four finalists brands Alessandro Conti and Gianluca Visconti, Dayse Cottini, Luca Lin and Claudio Cutugno. As the jury of this fashion contest there were Carla Biffi (boutique Biffi), Carlo Capasa (Costume National CEO), Mario Dell’Oglio (President Camera Buyer), Chiara Ferragni (The Blond Salad), Jane Reeve (CEO Camera Moda) and Danda Santini, Director of Elle Italy. Interesting choice of winner fell on Claudio Cutugno who, honoring the theme of death and abandonment, presented a collection with dark tones and outlined silhouettes that enhance the female figure to the nth degree.

To officially inaugurate the fashion calendar was the young Chicca Lualdi who, inspired by the ’60s, presents a collection with clean cuts and bright colors (magenta and blue over the sea are the protagonists while white is the lowest common denominator) . Beautiful blue short dresses with colored patterns which remind us of the sea in the moonlight.

Simonetta Ravizza instead presents fur with a modern twist. They feature polka dot lining inside the furs as well as the capsule collection dedicated to the mountains.

Sara Cavazza for Genny surprises with its color palette (very nice lime yellow on coats and hoods), hyper femininity of the collection and for the spirit of it-girl that is emerging in the Genny woman. For the day the colors are strong while the evening patterns and Swarovski crystals “invade” diva dresses.

Quite another woman is to Luisa Beccaria, in a mood and a bohemian etiquette that shows on the streets of Paris, has an elaborate collection-level tailoring. For the day, suit with pants will be a must as for evening cocktail dresses with embroidered floral patterns.

The highly anticipated debut of Alessandro Michele from Gucci, always playing with the boundaries between men and women, showcasing a collection that leaves behind all the past and upsets it. Few logos, few accessories and no red carpet dresses. The Gucci woman is fashionable, provocative and super “nasty.”

Young, fashion and underground is the it-girl of COTE, the young brand founded by Tommaso Anfossi and Francesco Ferrari. For next winter prints (those delicious with ice stalagmites with flowers) and embroidery dominate sweatshirts, skirts, and short dresses.

In the same vein, finally, even the jewelry luxury of Ca & Lou that debuted at Milan Fashion Week with a collection inspired by space and the planets. The changing colors and strict lines of convincing stones. Beautiful presentation of individual pieces in light box with background on the designs of Bruno Grizzo.

Finally, to emphasize this desire for revival in fashion, the event The Vogue Talents Corner, like every fashion week, supports young talents exhibiting their collections for one week at Palazzo Morando. For this week the following talents will debut: AWAJE, Cecilia But, CG, Coperni, Ken Samudio, Kittima, Les Petits Joueurs, Miuniku, Mobi, Ouigal, and Uncommon Matters.

A purposeful start has taken place in Milan, which is noting the evolution and revolution that is about to turn slowly in the world of fashion and the fashion system. For posterity will judge but in the meantime let’s enjoy these sparkling new designers.