QUOTIDIANOMIME

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Once there was a super Monday at London Fashion Week, which is the day when the big names of fashion made in UK were concentrated, but it definitely is the year of change. It’s an atypical fashion week and not to make a boring day as a rainy Sunday, all the designers wanted to partake in the third day of fashion week.

Opening in the morning was Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, with a collection to everyone for her beauty and practicality, made of clothes from high collars, asymmetrical skirts with petals in shades of blue, red and yellow, sweaters that look like crop tops, coats, and patchwork. A mix of folk, vintage 70s and Victorian style.

Claire Barrow was in favor of women’s emancipation but that leaves ample room for fun and desire to dare, beautiful pajama pants paired with silk tops and printed leather. It draws no doubt a welcome return.

Margaret Howell changed the location for her show but does not change the timeless elegance that characterizes her style. The coats are small handcrafted jewelry, tweed, sumptuous, and the present in the parade already thought of a way to accomodate one for next season.

David Koma is the sexiest of the morning, with his dresses and blouses that mix fabrics in nude-colored leather details, or even entire dresses or skirts of the same material. Allure of the 60s gave that extra touch that made us admire the entire collection.

Palmer Harding has created a wearable collection with “warm” colors such as yellow and rust on delicious sweaters and dresses with details that sometimes clash. Matthew Williamson is inspired by the dreams of the zodiac and their mystical significance. A mood characterizes the 70s dresses that seem best suited to warm autumns or places where the cold never comes.

ISSA goes even further back in time, with a collection that reminds us vaguely of the ’20s, but the clothes are made more modern thanks to tribal prints. It is gorgeous as always, and adapts to the public from upper class to which it addresses. Up was also the front-row thanks to celebs like Sienna Miller, permanent presence in this edition of LFW, the socialite and designers Eugenie Niarcos and Laurel Santo Domingo.

A nomadic spirit, similar to ISSA, pervades the collection of Temperley London. No longer just flowing dresses, but also pants and overalls, with inlays, heavy jacquard, geometric patterns and animal prints. Alice Temperley explains her choice: “pants are beautiful, easy to wear and it’s true: you do not always want to wear a dress.”

A will spice thinks Sophia Webster with a collection space, like a video of Katy Pery. Sequins, bows, twisted above the knee boots and boots with animal prints are the must-have for next season.

Opening the afternoon Topshop, exceptionally at the Tate and no longer at the Tate Modern. Despite the delay, Topshop has put on a fantastic show, lining up in the front row at his face, the it-girl/model/actress Cara Delevingne, followed closely by Kendall, Ellie Goulding, Alexa Chung, Daisy Lowe and many more. It’s a collection to and from it-girls, for girls and women who want to dream, wearing dresses that are delicious and seductive. Coats typically English girl, a hint of floral prints and leather pants. We can all feel a bit like Cara Delevingne when we wear any piece of this collection.

More austere is the collection of Paul Smith, with plaid prints in autumn colors and a bit dark covering long coats and very ladylike pants and sweaters. Paul Smith abandons his usual verve to go on a more classic style that never goes out of fashion, but that certainly does not strike.

Concluding the day was Mary Katrantzou, who invaded the catwalk with an explosion of color, as if to say “it must be a fall collection but you can also deal with panache.”Flounces: this is the leitmotif of the collection, flounces embroidered on the final part of midi skirts and dresses with glitter details, tweed coats with prints for glamour and parkas with prints that are the trademark of the designer. A collection of the past that looks to the future. A mix, the one between couture and modernity presented by designers is what makes this collection the most acclaimed far the Fashion Week.

Tomorrow it’s up to Burberry to amaze us. And also on Monday will have its touch of glamour.

Images: Vogue.co.uk; Mary Katrantzou Official Facebook Page